Confessions from the G-Spot of Europe: Vilnius, You Saucy Minx
They call Vilnius the G-spot of Europe, and no, I’m not making that up. The actual tourism board signed off on the advertising campaign in 2018. The brilliant concept? “Nobody knows where it is, but when you find it — it’s amazing.” I mean, that is some serious bold marketing, Lithuania. In case there are doubters amongst you, it won awards and even John Oliver talked about it!
I admire the confidence, and you can see that confidence transcend to the people of this fabulous town. As you can imagine the Catholic Church was not impressed, especially since the Pope was visiting the week after the campaign was announced but I, along with many others was most impressed when I heard this fun bit of trivia.
The tagline isn’t wrong. Vilnius is amazing. Not in a loud, neon-signs-and-skyline kind of way. It's more like, you arrive, blink a few times, yawn from jet lag, then slowly fall in love between mouthfuls of potatoes and your third coffee of the day.
Top 10 Reasons Why Vilnius Stole My Heart (and maybe added 15 lbs to my waistline):
1. The People: Let’s start with the humans. The brilliant, creative, warm humans. I had the joy of working with the incredible team at Artscape, an organization that runs art programs for refugees and other sensitive societal groups. My work with WAKE and Artscape will deserve its own more serious post, later. You want hope? Spend three day with these smart women. They’re the kind of people who make you feel instantly welcome with lofty goals of changing the world, making it kinder and more inclusive in a very authentic way. I left every meeting thinking, “Can I just move in here and never leave?” I just didn't want any of the conversations to stop.
2. The Architecture: Vilnius is a city that wears its past like couture, layers of Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance, and a hint of dark, shabby, cracked Soviet Brutalism thrown in for emotional depth. There are over 1,500 historic buildings in the city, each carrying its own chapter of the city’s complex past. One moment you’re passing a 16th-century church with frescoes that survived multiple occupations, and the next you’re looking at an old KGB building that still makes your stomach clench. The juxtaposition seems to make sense, like the city is saying, 'Yes, all of this happened. And here we still are.'
3. The Pink Soup: This Barbie-Pepto colored pink soup or šaltibarščiai is a Lithuanian summer staple, made with kefir (a fermented milk drink), cucumbers, dill, green onions, and boiled eggs, served cold, sometimes with a side of hot potatoes, because…Lithuania. Its roots go way back to peasant cuisine, when resourceful cooks used fermented dairy to make the most of whatever vegetables were available. Over time, it became a beloved seasonal tradition, especially because it’s so refreshingly light on a hot day. Well, theoretically hot day. We were in puffers, scarfs and hats. I was skeptical. I was wrong. It was OK. My amazing Lithuanian friend, Lina who I worked with last year even gave me a Pink Soup Pandora charm for my bracelet so I will always be reminded of the legendary Barbie-pink soup!
4. The Coffee: If I could bottle Vilnius’s coffee scene, I would. Tiny cafés serving brews so smooth and complex they might as well come with tasting notes, like wine, and a rich back story. We spent one delightful morning at a coffee shop called Eskedar Coffee where we partook in a coffee ceremony led by Eskedar, an Ethiopian refugee who crossed Sahara Desert and Mediterranean sea in 2006 to find safety in Lithuania. Her story and voice was mesmerizing, her coffee was the best I have ever tasted, and the whole ritual was like a meditative experience, where we all just slowed down, took a deep breath and let the smell of her Ethiopian coffee beans wafted through us.
5. The Potatoes: Mashed, fried, boiled, baked, stuffed, pancaked. Lithuania takes its potatoes very seriously. It’s like the entire country has sworn a solemn oath to ensure no potato dies in vain. You can (and will) eat them for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and possibly in your dreams. Not many people know this, but on occasion my nickname, or term of endearment is 'Spuds' from my sweet Hubby, so maybe that is yet another reason, this city calls to me.
6. The History: Vilnius doesn’t shy away from its past. You feel it in the cobblestones, the museums, the Jewish Quarter, the memorials. The weight of history is real here, sometimes harrowing, often humbling, but it’s met with a spirit of resilience that’s hard to put into words. This is a city that remembers, and still manages to welcome you in with open arms and a glass of Vyshnia, a cherry liquor which many love and I do not. To me, it tastes like cough syrup...sorry Vilnius, no one is perfect!
7. The Rebel Republic: Užupis A self-declared independent artist republic within Vilnius, complete with its own constitution (which includes gems like "Everyone has the right to make mistakes and Everyone has the right to be unique"). For those who are interested here are some excerpts from the Constitution:
A person has the right to die, but this is not his duty.
Man has the right to make mistakes.
Man has the right to love.
A person has the right to be lazy or do nothing.
A person has the right to doubt, but this is not his duty.
Man has the right to be happy.
Man has the right to be unhappy.
A person has the right to remain silent.
Man has the right to believe.
The person has the right to understand.
A person has the right to understand nothing.
A person has the right to be of different nationalities.
A person has the right to celebrate or not celebrate his birthday.
A person must remember his name.
A person can share what he has.
Man can not share what he does not have.
A person has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.
A man can be free.
The man is responsible for his freedom.
Man has the right to cry.
It's like if Banksy founded a country after one too many espressos or tequila shots.
8. The Weather: We arrived thinking it was Spring. The calendar said it was spring. But the temperature? The wind chill? Our noses? Absolutely not. It was more Arctic retreat than European getaway. We ended up sipping Aperol spritzes outside in full puffers like we were stylishly pre-gaming for a sled dog race. Nevertheless, those Baltic breezes were highly effective at jumpstarting our mornings as we power-walked to our program space. I know, I know...California has officially softened me!
9. The Parks and Green Spaces: For a city with so much stone and story, there’s a surprising amount of green. Lush parks, river walks, forest trails. You can go from cobblestones to countryside in twenty minutes. On our last day, before leaving for the airport, I went on the most spectacular walk in Dūkštos, where the trails wind through ancient oak groves, mossy boulders, and fairytale-like forest paths. It felt like stepping into a Baltic version of Narnia, peaceful, enchanting, and absolutely soul-soothing. Of course it had to be paired with a delicious waffle stop because I haven't had enough carb intake this week! 🙄 A perfect farewell gift from Lithuania’s countryside.
10. The Resilience & Pride: In just one week, we stumbled upon a concert raising money for breast cancer, a parade in solidarity with Poland, an EU + Lithuanian unity celebration, and on our final day, naturally, a women-only car racing event (which, fun fact, is the largest motorsports event in Lithuania) which was raising money for children's rights. For a country this size, they sure know how to show up for people that other countries (naming no names, but we all know who) are trying to silence, erase, or ignore.
It’s more than inspiring, it’s energizing. It’s fun, it’s bold, and it’s laced with the kind of strength that only comes from generations of holding your breath and hoping history doesn’t repeat itself. They’ve seen hardship up close, and you get the sense that every celebration, every flag, every song is a little louder because of it.
There’s a quiet strength to Vilnius. A “we’ve been through some things, but we’re still dancing and laughing” kind of energy. It’s in the art, the murals, the food, the music, the people, the pink soup. It’s a city that’s been cracked open and patched up with gold, and potatoes.
So yes, Vilnius might be the G-spot of Europe. And while I’m still not sure I can say that out loud without immature, childish, giggling or imagining the new Pope raising an eyebrow, I do know this:
I found something beautiful here.
And while I said goodbye to my new friends, it wasn’t really goodbye. It was more of a see you later. Until next time, Vilnius. You seductive little potato-filled treasure. Sure, that's not as risqué as a G-spot metaphor, but it's warmer, cozier, and fills the soul and my tummy!
Josephine, as people ask me what was it like to return to Vilnius a second time I now use this post. You captured the essence of the country, the culture, the starchy potato foods and the humor in a way only you can. 🫶Looking forward to another trip there next year. Here’s hoping rational, peaceful heads, prevail between now and then.🤞
Love the pictures! And I’m trying to fit Lithuania into a future trip!