On my way home from Lithuania (in case you missed my love letter to Vilnius last week), a dear friend and fellow advisor and I made a two-day pit stop in Istanbul. I couldn’t believe I’d never been before. The city immediately swept me off my feet with its layers of history, dazzling sights, and delicious kebabs and hummus at every corner. We checked off the big hitters: the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, each a towering testament to Ottoman opulence, soaked in centuries of drama, divinity, and more than a few bloody power plays (I highly recommend watching this fascinating Netflix show: Rise of Empires: Ottoman). And of course, the spice bazaar, where I spent an entirely unjustifiable amount on fragrant powders & spices, mystical teas, and Turkish delight so addictive I had it vacuum sealed, not to preserve it, but to stop myself from eating it all in one delirious sitting.

After a full day of sightseeing, we decided to shift gears into something more indulgent: a traditional Hamam, or Turkish Bath. What followed was less of a spa visit and more of a full-body spiritual reset, with a splash of comedy and a whole lot of scrubbing.
Built in 1580, the magnificent Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı must have welcomed countless individuals from every imaginable walk of life, all united by the common pursuit of cleansing, relaxation, and perhaps a dash of humility. I mean, we are talking 445 years old, way, way before the U.S was even thought of!
Quick Historical Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı Tidbits (1580-now):
Built by famed Ottoman admiral Kılıç Ali Paşa
Survived multiple earthquakes, fires, and the rise and fall of empires
Renovated beautifully, with careful preservation of historical details, including the intricately carved marble and original dome featuring symbolic celestial patterns
Now a go-to spot for modern-day cleansing (no phones inside though, thankfully)
Being a Hamam virgin I was equal parts nervous and excited. Here is how it all went down:
Step 1: The Rinse. Nadia, my attendant with the toothiest grin I've ever seen, took great joy in unexpectedly dousing me repeatedly, over and over, with barely time to breathe in between. I wondered how many rituals she performs every day and whether she enjoys the 'newbies' who don't know what on earth is happening.
Step 2: Air Dry (or "Contemplation on Marble"). Lying naked on the warm marble slab, staring up at the dome carved with little moons and stars, my mind wandered. Who were all the women who lay here before me over the centuries? What stories could these stones tell? Perhaps aristocratic women whispered palace secrets here, stories of scandal and intrigue. Who had fallen in love with whom, and who bore the Prince’s hidden child? Or maybe, brave groups of women secretly planned protests here to advance their rights and place in society. The separate shifts for men and women would certainly allow for such meetings. The quintessential spot for female solidarity!
Step 3: Scrub-a-Dub-Dub. With military precision, Nadia attacked my body with a loofah, scrubbing places I didn't even know could be scrubbed. Every crevice, every roll, my face, ears, even between every toe! She showed no mercy, every square inch of my skin got scrubbed with the zeal of someone trying to erase all evidence of my past sins. She then encased me in bubbles with a magic swoosh of a towel, massaging gently, turning me into what felt like a very relaxed marshmallow. Then—BAM—a bucket of icy water! Nadia's grin grew wider each time she startled a scream out of me. "One more?" She begged and I responded, "Oh, go on then!" seeing how much pleasure she was getting. I might've sworn. Loudly.
Step 4: Tea, Naturally. Nothing resets dignity quite like a steaming cup of Turkish pomegranate tea.
Step 5: The Massage. My add-on treat was heaven. I was stretched, rubbed, and kneaded until all tension exited through my ears and nose. It was undoubtedly the BEST massage ever. We were so blissed-out that we boarded four different ferries going in the wrong direction before realizing we could've simply walked across the bridge to get back to our hotel. But where's the fun in easy?
The Hamam ritual was women-only until 4 PM, and there was something unexpectedly comforting about being naked and vulnerable in a room full of women. Tourists like me (awkwardly trying to look casual) mingled with locals who treated this ritual like a weekly body-maintenance session. And in that steamy, marble sanctuary, something clicked: stripped down, without labels or layers, we women are far more alike than different. As Maya Angelou once said, "We are more alike, my friends, than we are unalike." (Human Family). And nowhere does that ring truer than in a centuries-old bathhouse with your bum on warm stone and your soul and wiggly bits hanging out.
Stepping outside, freshly scrubbed women donned hijabs, scarves, western clothing, or tourist gear. On the outside, we differed, but inside, we were unified by our freshly cleansed skin and refreshed souls. It made me wonder (yes, Carrie Bradshaw vibes incoming): Imagine if we celebrated our similarities as enthusiastically as our differences?
As I leave Istanbul, this baptism-by-bubbles felt like the perfect time to reset some intentions. So here goes:
Be for something, not just against something.
Giggle at least once a day (three giggles preferred).
Learn something new weekly (even if it’s just how to fold a fitted sheet).
Take a quiet walk...no podcasts, no music, just footsteps.
Actually drink my now gigantic Turkish tea supply rather than leaving it forgotten in the cupboard.
Meditate... maybe. Let's not overpromise.
Any other intentions you recommend? I'm leaving negativity swirling down the Hamam drain with those pesky, old, dead skin cells. Time to embrace positivity...within reason, of course. Still gotta be me! 😜
Let's see how long that lasts.

I am pretty sure it’s bad form to comment on your own post but I am going to do it anyway since I want to save this update: my Mum’s best friend just read this and said that she remembers going to the same Hamam with my Mum years ago which is kind of amazing. To think she also lay naked on that marble slab, many moons ago. I wonder if she also had Nadia the aggressor!
Going to put Turkish bath on my must-do list😊